I have been planning a longer quilted Grainline Tamarack jacket for some time. Our third lockdown seemed the perfect time to tackle the big project. I had gathered a basket of pieces from previous projects, well-loved garments and a stack of remnants from Doops Designs. I wanted this to be a happy, warm spring jacket and I think I’ve done it!
I made several adjustments to the size 8 pattern. I wanted a longer, bigger, warmer coat that could accommodate a sweater underneath. First of all, I lengthened the pattern by 5″. Then I raised the neckline by 1″, lowered the armscye by 1/2″, added 1/2″ to each side of the sleeve seam and the side seams. Then I made a muslin and found I needed to add more to the jacket seams at the armscye, tapering away to nothing around the pocket line. After making my Jasika Blazer, I a a convinced muslin-maker. You can do the math, but it’s not until you try it on that you see how your calculations work.
I’ve also become a confirmed baster. I rely on basting not just for quilted garments, but for getting perfect collars and cuffs and every other precise sewing task. Sometimes I machine baste (adding sleeves) but mostly I do it by hand.
This Tamarack was so much fun to make. It is my first quilting experience but a walking foot with stitch guide made it so easy. I chose simple vertical lines because the fabrics were the story. I can tell you where they each came from, and in some cases who gave them to me. So it’s a memory coat and a survival coat and one which I hope I wear for many years to come.
This is FAB.U.LOUS!
Also fabulous is learning that Doops sells remnant packages. I love how you used them in a patchwork jacket!
Will also need to check out Susan K’s thread and needles specifically for basting.
So great to hear from you, Sue. I learned about the basting needles and thread from one of Closet Core’s posts. Susan K has a helpful video with each of her carefully-chosen products. The thread comes in four colours and is enough for years of basting. 🙂
I just came across this post and oh my gosh how I love your jacket is so very wonderful! Thanks so much for sharing your pattern changes, maybe one day I’ll get brave enough to give it a try.
Thank you Joan. I encourage you to try to make your own Tamarack. It was surprisingly straightforward, just one small step after another. It’s a fabulous pattern.
Christine
I am in Australia … I would love to make this jacket! I am a quilter, but a very amateur dressmaker. Is this a relatively simple sew? Are there clear instructions with the pattern? You jacket is fabulous!
Elaine
This is a well-drafted and straigtforward pattern. The hard part is the quilting, which you have under control. 🙂
That said, I would recommend making a toile out of an old bedsheet to figure out the size you want. My post outlines all the changes I made–lengthening, raising the neckline etc. I have become a confirmed toile maker as it really helps you to get the fit you want.
Good luck
Christine
Tamarack
Your choice of fabrics is inspirational
I’ve purchased the pattern and have laid out a few combos I think keeping a unifying colour is the key When I look at your choices. I see a lot of navy Thank you fur your insights
Thank you! It’s been a year now since I made this, and I still love wearing it. Best of luck on your Tamarack!
I love the coat and the beautiful inside. It’s a worthy goal to work toward.
Beautiful coat, thanks for the details of the project. I have been undecided on the pattern for my next quilted jacket & am impressed with this one. Thanks…
Thanks for your comments, Shirley. It’s a great pattern, but next time I would also use the collar extension pack Grainline has added. I miss a collar on this coat.
This is absolutely lovely! Thank you for sharing your process. As a person who loves to design, I appreciate all the time you put into making it “just right”! I will be hand basting!
Thank you so much Meg!
Just found this on pinterest. In a word… stunning. Thanks for listing your changes. Would you find that a little more slippery fabric would work better in the sleeves?
Thanks, Maddie. I know what you mean about slippery sleeve fabric. I have used Kasha for the sleeves of a winter coat. But I must say, I have no problem getting my sweatered arm into these flannel sleeves. I think the quilting must help make them smooth.