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My Heather Blazer

October 30, 2021 by Birdbrain 2 Comments

This is my second blazer of 2021. I have already written about my Jasika Blazer back a couple of posts. Making that blazer was a real lesson in tailoring and I relied on the outstanding Closet Core Patters course. In fact, I could not have made the Jasika without the course. I learned how to match plaids across sleeves, insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads, baste, interface and properly press curves, rolls and seams just to mention a few skills–the course has changed my sewing practice in many, many ways. The Closet Core ebook on fitting the blazer was also incredibly helpful.

The Heather Blazer is a simpler make overall, missing many of the tailoring details of the Jasika. But it has the oversized fit and shape I was looking for and I am very pleased with the resulting blazer. I revisited parts of the course during the making of my Heather and used the skills I learned to improve the fit and some of the details.

First off I made a muslin. I am now a confirmed muslin maker for any major project. I learned that I needed to cut a size small on the top and an extra-small at the hips. (The fit is generous.) I shortened the blazer by 2″ and inserted shoulder pads to improve the fit. I made the pockets from the Haremere Jacket in the Merchant and Mills sewing book. These are beautiful lined pockets with rounded bottoms. And keeping with that shape, I also rounded the front of the jacket at the hem.

I lined the blazer in maroon Bemburg and I enjoyed the clean process of bagging the lining outlined in the Heather instructions. I also used a contrasting wool for the under collar–a touch of fun.

It’s autumn here in Ontario and I’m grateful things are at the stage that we can meet in small groups–and you can be sure I’ll be wearing my blazer.

Back view with the contrasting under collar
Inside view: Bemburg lining and Kylie and the Machine label
Blazer making tools

Filed Under: Uncategorized

My new quilted Tamarack

April 26, 2021 by Birdbrain 13 Comments

I have been planning a longer quilted Grainline Tamarack jacket for some time. Our third lockdown seemed the perfect time to tackle the big project. I had gathered a basket of pieces from previous projects, well-loved garments and a stack of remnants from Doops Designs. I wanted this to be a happy, warm spring jacket and I think I’ve done it!

I made several adjustments to the size 8 pattern. I wanted a longer, bigger, warmer coat that could accommodate a sweater underneath. First of all, I lengthened the pattern by 5″. Then I raised the neckline by 1″, lowered the armscye by 1/2″, added 1/2″ to each side of the sleeve seam and the side seams. Then I made a muslin and found I needed to add more to the jacket seams at the armscye, tapering away to nothing around the pocket line. After making my Jasika Blazer, I a a convinced muslin-maker. You can do the math, but it’s not until you try it on that you see how your calculations work.

I’ve also become a confirmed baster. I rely on basting not just for quilted garments, but for getting perfect collars and cuffs and every other precise sewing task. Sometimes I machine baste (adding sleeves) but mostly I do it by hand.

These are lovely long basting needles and lovely smooth basting thread. Both from Susan Khalje.
The three layers of the Tamarack front basted together–cotton and linen patchwork, cotton/wool batting and chambray flannel.
Inside out details. Welt Pockets and snaps backed with leather.

This Tamarack was so much fun to make. It is my first quilting experience but a walking foot with stitch guide made it so easy. I chose simple vertical lines because the fabrics were the story. I can tell you where they each came from, and in some cases who gave them to me. So it’s a memory coat and a survival coat and one which I hope I wear for many years to come.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: quilt coat, Tamarack

My Jasika Blazer

March 25, 2021 by Birdbrain 2 Comments

It has been a very long time since I’ve written a post. However, the completion of my Jasika Blazer from Closet Core Patterns seems to be a good reason to write again. This is a daunting pattern, with many steps, but well worth making. The whole process not only produced a wonderful, wearable garment, but helped me up my sewing and pressing skills. I love the couturier details in the pattern and more than that, Heather’s expectation that I, an aging home sewer, am up to the challenge.

When I ordered the pattern, I also ordered the tailoring supplies and the online course sold by Closet Core. I wanted all the help I could get. I circled around this project for several months before I plunged in, and once I started it took less than two weeks to complete.

Heather of Closet Core strongly recommends making a muslin before beginning to sew the blazer. This was important for me as I wanted to adjust the pattern from the fitted style to a boxier, more casual fit. The ebook holds your hand through this. Then, once I made the muslin, I realized that I also had to make a sloped shoulder adjustment. Again, the fitting e-book helped me diagnose and solve my fit issues. I even added an extra layer to one of the shoulder pads!

I used some lovely gray herringbone wool which I have had for a long time, bought at the Dorr Mill Store in New Hampshire. The under collar is made from a recycled Pendelton skirt. I washed both wools in the washing machine on the gentle cycle and popped in the dryer for 10 minutes.

This blazer is my first try at welt pockets, shoulder pads, fine bemburg lining, silk basting stitches, welt interfacing etc etc. Many firsts. Of course it’s not perfect. And there were moments of anguish. The lining has a small seam ripper slit which I carefully patched and my button holer balked at the thick wool, leaving me a button hole which needed some hand-stitching help. But it is the blazer I envisioned, every stitch of it!

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Two Sienna Maker Jackets

May 19, 2020 by Birdbrain 2 Comments

There has been lots of time to sew in the past two months. It’s been a tense and uncomfortable time in so many ways, but the long periods in my studio have been a gift. My favourite online fabric stores, Needlework , Simplifi and Blackbird have all been working full-tilt to fulfil our sewing needs and I love to see the packages on the doorstep.

Carissa looks great in two versions of the Sienna Maker Jacket. She is keeping the short one, so I may have to make another! I am a huge fan of this jacket for its stylish comfort. Both jackets are size 8 with no adjustments and are roomy enough to have a warm sweater underneath. Below I’m wearing the jacket with the collar up, showing the repurposed Marimekko fabric (from a tote bag). The jackets have a utility vibe with couture details, including a back vent on the short jacket. I love Closet Case Patterns for these extra touches. I used heavy thread and my industrial machine for the top stitching on the longer jacket as the denim was heavy and this enhanced the worker feel. The only thing I would change is the pocket construction–folding the top down first, as suggested, leaves a raw edge exposed–folding the side then the top hides all raw edges.

The long cool spring we have been having in Ontario has given us both lots of chances to wear our Siennas with warm scarves and they’ll continue as an extra layer for cool nights until summer.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Sienna Maker Jacket

April 3, 2020 by Birdbrain Leave a Comment

I have wanted to get back to the blog and this period of self-isolation we are all experiencing has provided both the time and the incentive. It’s a time to do the things we love, to connect and also a time to reflect. I’ve been sewing and rug hooking to help deal with the stress and worry which come in unexpected jolts. First, I tackled the number one sewing project on my list, the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Case Patterns. I’ve been admiring the denim workwear jackets this season (love this version by Margaret Howell) and wanted to make my version. To begin I made view C with some 10oz denim I had on hand.

This is a well-drafted pattern and a straight-forward sew. The instructions are excellent and the sew-along on the Closet Case site took me through every step with many photos and an alternative/better hem option.

I made a size 8 with no alterations except for adding 2″ to the hemline, following advice I got on IG. If I were to make it again, I would lower the pockets, since the jacket is longer, and make the pockets bigger. The fit is comfortable with a sweater–which is the way I’ll wear it most.

View B is next for me. I’ve ordered more snaps, because I love that look and truthfully because I’m still terrified of button holes! That–finding ease with buttonhole making–is also on the list.

Sienna Maker Jacket, view c, worn with Robert Kaufmann flannel check LB pullover extended to dress length with side-seam pockets.
Sienna again with second-hand Stella McCartney jeans and Camper shoes both from CityRevival

Filed Under: Uncategorized

2020

January 6, 2020 by Birdbrain 11 Comments

I’m starting off 2020 with a post, and hoping to continue with regularity. As you probably know, you can catch up with me on Instagram (button in menu at the top of the page). But the blog is the place for longer pieces, exploring ideas and making connections. I’ve been away so long, that there is a new format to learn. Fingers crossed I can still do this!

I’m heading off to my textile retreat in under two weeks and one of the tasks is to share three highlights of the year. I’ve covered my first highlight, the Gallery 121 show in May here. A second highlight was having my work featured in two different publications. I was thrilled to have both my sketches and rug hooking in Karen Miller’s Eyes Open to the World, a wonderful collection of hooked pieces inspired by travelling. In this past issue of A Needle Pulling Thread, my ‘self-portrait’ Red Shoes, was featured in the Artist Review section. Thank you to the editors of both publications for noticing my work and wanting to share it.

from A Needle Pulling Thread, Issue 51

Filed Under: Uncategorized

my return

August 19, 2019 by Birdbrain 13 Comments

It has been months since I have done a post. If you are reading this, thank you for staying with me. I’ve had time to think about the blog and what I want to do with it. For a time I thought it was done. Instagram is such  quick alternative and I’ve been keeping up there–so you can always use the button in the menu above to see what I’ve been up to. But the blog is for more extended writing and also a place where you can see what I’ve made and purchase if you want to. We’ve revamped the shop — but more on that in a few weeks. I’ll send out notification, so let me know if you want to be on the list.

I’ve also been sewing more of my own clothes and I want to share the wonderful indie patterns I’ve found and some of the things I’ve been making. More of that to come in September.

Right now I want to show you the new travel tote I made for my upcoming trip to Scandinavia. I was given a marvellous trove of designer leather in the spring and this is the first I have used any of it. This is not recycled leather, but surplus and I am delighted to ‘repurpose’. There will be some gorgeous colours and textures coming later. This is mocha waxed canvas and brown leather with a great Japanese cotton lining–lots of pockets and a wide crossbody strap. I look forward to slinging it over my shoulder, filled with all my travel essentials. 

And on the sketching front…we spent most of the summer at the lake where I was working on sketches of trees and water. Not easy. We did make a couple of trips to the nearby town of Bancroft where I had  chance to do some sketches of the old buildings. Here are two.

I’ll write again when I’m home from the trip–with some thoughts on the area I’ve wanted to visit forever, some sketches and some photos. Thanks again for sticking with me.

Filed Under: bags and purses, recycled leather, sketching

the beauty of reusing leather, part one

May 13, 2019 by Birdbrain 2 Comments

I made this bag in the fall of 2015.  It has been used every day since and these photos show what it looks like today. Pretty good! The bag is made from a man’s coat, so it was in its second iteration. The owner has decided she wants a new bag so she returned this one so I could pass it along or use it for parts. There is still too much life in it to take it apart. It’s just getting worn in! So it’s on its way to a new owner.

A good leather jacket or pair of pants usually have lots of life left in them. I enjoy both the ethic and the process of making something out of an existing piece. The jacket or pair of pants have already made their mark on the environment so giving it another life is a plus all round. And working within a framework of limited resources has given rise to new ideas and new designs.

Filed Under: bags and purses

Gallery 121 preview

May 8, 2019 by Birdbrain 7 Comments

Here are some photos from the setup of the show at Gallery 121. The official opening is this Saturday May 11, 2:00 to 4:00. Pictured here are my hooked runner, a few hooked pillows inspired by Ton Schulten, two of my bags and a couple of pairs of Bombazine oven mitts. Much more at the show. I would love to see you there.

 

Filed Under: bags and purses, Hooking, textiles

a not-so-plain black bag

May 6, 2019 by Birdbrain Leave a Comment

At the last sale of the Textile Museum of Canada I got two pieces of black leather. That leather turned out to be top quality and I’ve used it in several projects. This bag has the very last of it on the top half. The bottom is yet another remnant which I’ve had for a while. Together they make a dynamite bag. There is a zipper pocket on the outside and another inside as well as two slip pockets. (The lining is also from the TMC sale–fits with my use-it-up/repurpose philosophy.) Great hardware attaches an adjustable strap. And, as you can see from the third photo, the tabs are made of smile-making starry leather. Compact and versatile, this is a great day bag. In the Gallery 121 sale.

Filed Under: bags and purses

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