BirdBrain Designs

This is my second blazer of 2021. I have already written about my Jasika Blazer back a couple of posts. Making that blazer was a real lesson in tailoring and I relied on the outstanding Closet Core Patters course. In fact, I could not have made the Jasika without the course. I learned how to match plaids across sleeves, insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads, baste, interface and properly press curves, rolls and seams just to mention a few skills–the course has changed my sewing practice in many, many ways. The Closet Core ebook on fitting the blazer was also incredibly helpful.

The Heather Blazer is a simpler make overall, missing many of the tailoring details of the Jasika. But it has the oversized fit and shape I was looking for and I am very pleased with the resulting blazer. I revisited parts of the course during the making of my Heather and used the skills I learned to improve the fit and some of the details.

First off I made a muslin. I am now a confirmed muslin maker for any major project. I learned that I needed to cut a size small on the top and an extra-small at the hips. (The fit is generous.) I shortened the blazer by 2″ and inserted shoulder pads to improve the fit. I made the pockets from the Haremere Jacket in the Merchant and Mills sewing book. These are beautiful lined pockets with rounded bottoms. And keeping with that shape, I also rounded the front of the jacket at the hem.

I lined the blazer in maroon Bemburg and I enjoyed the clean process of bagging the lining outlined in the Heather instructions. I also used a contrasting wool for the under collar–a touch of fun.

It’s autumn here in Ontario and I’m grateful things are at the stage that we can meet in small groups–and you can be sure I’ll be wearing my blazer.

It has been a very long time since I’ve written a post. However, the completion of my Jasika Blazer from Closet Core Patterns seems to be a good reason to write again. This is a daunting pattern, with many steps, but well worth making. The whole process not only produced a wonderful, wearable garment, but helped me up my sewing and pressing skills. I love the couturier details in the pattern and more than that, Heather’s expectation that I, an aging home sewer, am up to the challenge.

When I ordered the pattern, I also ordered the tailoring supplies and the online course sold by Closet Core. I wanted all the help I could get. I circled around this project for several months before I plunged in, and once I started it took less than two weeks to complete.

Heather of Closet Core strongly recommends making a muslin before beginning to sew the blazer. This was important for me as I wanted to adjust the pattern from the fitted style to a boxier, more casual fit. The ebook holds your hand through this. Then, once I made the muslin, I realized that I also had to make a sloped shoulder adjustment. Again, the fitting e-book helped me diagnose and solve my fit issues. I even added an extra layer to one of the shoulder pads!

I used some lovely gray herringbone wool which I have had for a long time, bought at the Dorr Mill Store in New Hampshire. The under collar is made from a recycled Pendelton skirt. I washed both wools in the washing machine on the gentle cycle and popped in the dryer for 10 minutes.

This blazer is my first try at welt pockets, shoulder pads, fine bemburg lining, silk basting stitches, welt interfacing etc etc. Many firsts. Of course it’s not perfect. And there were moments of anguish. The lining has a small seam ripper slit which I carefully patched and my button holer balked at the thick wool, leaving me a button hole which needed some hand-stitching help. But it is the blazer I envisioned, every stitch of it!

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There has been lots of time to sew in the past two months. It’s been a tense and uncomfortable time in so many ways, but the long periods in my studio have been a gift. My favourite online fabric stores, Needlework , Simplifi and Blackbird have all been working full-tilt to fulfil our sewing needs and I love to see the packages on the doorstep.

Carissa looks great in two versions of the Sienna Maker Jacket. She is keeping the short one, so I may have to make another! I am a huge fan of this jacket for its stylish comfort. Both jackets are size 8 with no adjustments and are roomy enough to have a warm sweater underneath. Below I’m wearing the jacket with the collar up, showing the repurposed Marimekko fabric (from a tote bag). The jackets have a utility vibe with couture details, including a back vent on the short jacket. I love Closet Case Patterns for these extra touches. I used heavy thread and my industrial machine for the top stitching on the longer jacket as the denim was heavy and this enhanced the worker feel. The only thing I would change is the pocket construction–folding the top down first, as suggested, leaves a raw edge exposed–folding the side then the top hides all raw edges.

The long cool spring we have been having in Ontario has given us both lots of chances to wear our Siennas with warm scarves and they’ll continue as an extra layer for cool nights until summer.

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I have wanted to get back to the blog and this period of self-isolation we are all experiencing has provided both the time and the incentive. It’s a time to do the things we love, to connect and also a time to reflect. I’ve been sewing and rug hooking to help deal with the stress and worry which come in unexpected jolts. First, I tackled the number one sewing project on my list, the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Case Patterns. I’ve been admiring the denim workwear jackets this season (love this version by Margaret Howell) and wanted to make my version. To begin I made view C with some 10oz denim I had on hand.

This is a well-drafted pattern and a straight-forward sew. The instructions are excellent and the sew-along on the Closet Case site took me through every step with many photos and an alternative/better hem option.

I made a size 8 with no alterations except for adding 2″ to the hemline, following advice I got on IG. If I were to make it again, I would lower the pockets, since the jacket is longer, and make the pockets bigger. The fit is comfortable with a sweater–which is the way I’ll wear it most.

View B is next for me. I’ve ordered more snaps, because I love that look and truthfully because I’m still terrified of button holes! That–finding ease with buttonhole making–is also on the list.

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I’m starting off 2020 with a post, and hoping to continue with regularity. As you probably know, you can catch up with me on Instagram (button in menu at the top of the page). But the blog is the place for longer pieces, exploring ideas and making connections. I’ve been away so long, that there is a new format to learn. Fingers crossed I can still do this!

I’m heading off to my textile retreat in under two weeks and one of the tasks is to share three highlights of the year. I’ve covered my first highlight, the Gallery 121 show in May here. A second highlight was having my work featured in two different publications. I was thrilled to have both my sketches and rug hooking in Karen Miller’s Eyes Open to the World, a wonderful collection of hooked pieces inspired by travelling. In this past issue of A Needle Pulling Thread, my ‘self-portrait’ Red Shoes, was featured in the Artist Review section. Thank you to the editors of both publications for noticing my work and wanting to share it.